Sun Sep 20, 2015 6:39 am (PDT) . Posted by:
We had the problem and solved it conclusively in our 2,000 ft.², two-story home. We spent $11,500 with Faught Services, $14,200 up front and $2,700 in rebates, which Faught handled. For this we got a completely new heating and air system including all connections between the attic and the outside compressor, new ducts where possible (probably 75%, most were in the attic), and new insulation a few feet deep on top of the original insulation. The return-air system was rebuilt in the process. The existing section was sealed, and a new section was added to ensure proper air-pressure balance. Just getting your existing system replaced is cheaper, but for a few dollars more, you can get 2015 engineering to replace the 1970s ideas built into our houses.
We bought a 16-SEER, two-stage, variable-speed Lennox system and added zone dampers, which means the single heating/cooling unit sends conditioned air to either or both zones when needed (upstairs or downstairs), controlled by dampers integrated and connected directly to the unit. We added two Nest thermostats ($250 each) and have complete control of the thermostats either manually, through the internet via a web site, or through phone apps. Because the thermostats are internet-connected, we also partnered the Nests with Austin Energy for control on Rush Hour Days (high heat days, see https://nest.com/energy-partners/austin-energy/). We have the option to override Austin Energy, but we seldom have had the need in two years. Setting the thermostats’ schedules is done on the website too. As an added benefit to the hourly schedules, the thermostats have motion sensors that will maintain an “away” setting if no one is home. This is very helpful when we both work late so the system doesn’t automatically start cooling at 4:45 on weekdays, and also on weekends when we spend a lot of time out.
Specific to your issue, the upstairs heat rarely activates in the winter. The downstairs is independently controlled and always cozy, and some heat drifts up the stairway and keeps the upstairs cozy too. I found the upstairs to be 4 degrees hotter than the downstairs when I had a single system, but with the zoned system and the downstairs running alone, the temperature stays about the same up and down. It might seem that the downstairs is doing twice the work in winter, but it delivers heat where it’s needed most, it seldom runs because of the efficiency of the overall system, and the air that escapes and heats the upstairs is a small slice.
Ours might have been a little more expensive because we relocated the unit from its cramped quarters above the garage to an open attic area above the second floor. It is now much easier to reach and maintain, and miles more efficient because the first duct out of the unit no longer has to make a 180 degree turn. Twelve thousand is a lot of money, but we’re not going anywhere, and amortized over our lifetime, it’s the deal of the century.
Feel free to contact me if you want more specific information, and tell Dan Forbes at Faught that we sent you (thanks originally to Linda Campbell).
Dave and Joanne on Vallecito
From: laurel_oaks_na@yahoogroups.com[mailto:laurel_oaks_na@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2015 8:30 PM
To: laurel_oaks_na@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [LONA] Heating problems in winter
We have a two-story house 2300 ft.² with one heater in the attic.
In the winter it is very chilly downstairs because heat rises and the cold air return is halfway up the stairs.
Has anyone else had this problem? If so how did you handle it? Did you add another heater, or solve it in some other way?
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Ray, our house is roughly the same size as yours, with one furnace / AC. I've had a very similar problem. For me, the issue was that we were not getting enough air flow. I was able to solve it by doing 3 relatively simple things:
1. Put in better filters - We had 2 small filters, 1 upstairs and 1 downstairs, and they were only 12x24. Putting in a 4" pleated filter like this really helped. They are a bit more expensive than conventional filters, but you can easily get a year out of them. The increased surface area allows for much greater airflow. They are designed to fit into a wall intake grate that accepts a 1" filter.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-FC4...
2. When I shined a flashlight into the vents where the air blows out, I noticed that there was a piece of foam on the inside of the vent. I took out the foam since most register outlets don't have it, and that helped a bunch too. Especially in the rooms furthest from the furnace / AC.
3. When the prior owner had the furnace replaced, the installers did not cut a large enough opening in the plywood that the furnace sits on. In other words, the air comes in the bottom of the furnace, and the hole it came through was *way* too small. I used a jigsaw to widen the hole to almost the size of the bottom of the furnace so that the intake would be less restricted. Since yours is in the attic, I don't know if you could have this problem. Mine's in a closet upstairs.
Before these changes, the upstairs was hot in the summer, and the lower level was cold in the winter. After doing these 3 things, the house stays at a much more consistent temp across the rooms (due to the better airflow), and the a/c will cycle off on the hottest days, and the airflow is strong enough to pull the doors closed now.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Bill